# Costa Rica: Costa Rica itinerary, in detail

> In-depth details about our stays, food and activities on a 13-day winter trip through Costa Rica, from cloud forests to hot springs.

- **Source:** https://trainsandfrogs.com/costarica/itinerary-detail
- **Destination:** Costa Rica
- **Article type:** In Detail
- **Author:** Riddhi
- **Published:** 2026-10-26
- **Topics:** kids, Central America, family

## About this trip

- **Region:** Central America
- **Trip length:** 13 days
- **Season:** Winter
- **Travelling party:** 2 adults, Child, Grandparents

![Costa Rica](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-red-eyed-tree-frog.jpg)

## Day 1 Coco Beach

![The Costa Rican coast seen from an airplane window, with the wing in view](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-airplane-coast.jpg)

_Our first view of Costa Rica from the airplane._

We picked up our rental car after a quick ride in the shuttle van. The process was easy at **Adobe** car rental, as they didn't force us to buy any extra, expensive insurance. The car was new, sanitized and in great condition. Leaving Liberia, we drove through some coastal country roads and small towns, and reached our hotel near **Coco Beach** in under an hour.

> **What worked:** Adobe Rent a Car in Liberia didn't push extra, expensive insurance on us, and the car was new and in great condition.

![Boy crouching on the dark sand of Coco Beach, with the bay behind](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-black-sand.jpg)

_Coco Beach._

Once we checked into our hotel, we changed and headed to the beach. We set out on foot, thinking it was within walking distance, but the proper beach access was easier by car. When we finally made it, the beach was incredibly crowded. It was Christmas Day, and it seemed local families had flocked to the beach for gatherings. With the crowds, it was hard to enjoy, so we went back to spend some time at the hotel pool.

![Someone swimming in a hotel pool surrounded by tropical plants](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-hotel-pool.jpg)

_Enjoying the hotel pool._

For dinner we went to a Mexican restaurant in the market area near the beach. The food was quite different from the Mexican food we were expecting; only our son enjoyed it. We stopped at a local grocery store to buy SIM cards for our phones, walked around the market briefly, and went back to the hotel. Despite trying everything we could for about two hours, we just couldn't get the SIM cards to work. We ended up buying an international plan from our own phone company for the trip, as we needed it for directions.

> **Watch out:** We couldn't get local SIM cards to work in our phones after two hours of trying. An international plan from our own carrier was the fallback.

![Woman and boy reading menus at a table with a bright patterned tablecloth](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-coco-dinner.jpg)

_Dinnertime in Coco Beach._

![The colorful painted sign of El Capricho restaurant](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-el-capricho.jpg)

_El Capricho restaurant._

## Day 2 Palo Verde National Park

After a wonderful breakfast, we drove to the town of **Ortega** to check in for our boat tour of **Palo Verde National Park**. Google Maps said about an hour, but the road soon turned unpaved as we drove through small rural communities. Since it was the dry season, the roads were dusty; in the wet season they may be muddy, with high river crossings. We arrived in just under two hours, ready to begin.

![Boy playing a wooden marimba in the tour office](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-palo-verde-office.jpg)

_Exploring the Palo Verde tour office._

The tour is run by a family, with everyone involved in some part of the business. First, we got a demonstration of how pottery is made from local clay and plants. Each tribe in the area has its own colors and animal shapes. We got to try the process and bought some special handicrafts. Next came a corn tortilla demonstration on a traditional stove with traditional ingredients. Trying these fresh tortillas made us even more excited for lunch later.

Then we followed the tour company's truck down more rural roads to the boat dock in the national park. As soon as we reached the parking area, we saw howler monkeys in the trees and iguanas on the ground.

![The family posing with the sign for the Cipancí wildlife refuge by the river](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-palo-verde-sign.jpg)

_Near the boat dock._

On the boat, we traveled up the river, stopping along the way to get close to animals and birds during the roughly two-hour ride. We saw numerous crocodiles, birds, monkeys, coatis, raccoons, iguanas, bats and bugs. The tour was well worth it to see the amazing ecosystem of Palo Verde and the rural communities around it.

![A crocodile lying on the muddy riverbank](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-croc-jump.jpg)

_A crocodile on the riverbank._

![A small tour boat on the brown river, with trees along the bank](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-palo-verde-boat.jpg)

_The view of the river._

![A narrow muddy creek running into the river under the trees](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-raccoon-creek.jpg)

_Where we saw raccoons crossing the river._

Back at the tour office, we enjoyed a delicious lunch of local recipes, made by hand from local ingredients. It was one of the best meals of our trip. It was a bit later than expected, after 2 pm, when we set off for **Monteverde**.

The drive took just under four hours. Some roads were sketchy, rocky and steep. The roads near Monteverde and within the town are incredibly winding, narrow and uphill, and it started to rain, so it takes extra time to get up there. We stopped at a beautiful sunset spot on a local family's property; they accept donations for access to the viewpoint. Driving the rest of the way on narrow, winding roads in the dark and rain, with no street lights, was challenging. Our son got motion sick, and I was nauseous too. We recommend giving yourself extra time, and daylight if possible, for this drive.

> **Watch out:** The roads up to Monteverde are winding, narrow and steep, with no street lights. Drive them in daylight if you can, and plan for motion sickness.

![Woman hugging a boy on a hillside at sunset, with green hills rolling to the coast](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-sunset-viewpoint.jpg)

_A sunset viewpoint in someone's backyard on the way to Monteverde._

Once checked in to our gorgeous cabin in the cloud forest, we went into town for dinner. Since it was late, we picked an Italian place that was open and had a great meal, then picked up groceries from the store next door. We showered and went to bed.

![A wooden cabin among tall trees in Monteverde](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-monteverde-cabin.jpg)

_Our Airbnb in Monteverde._

## Day 3 Monteverde Cloud Forest

After breakfast at our Airbnb, we made an early start, driving a few minutes out of town to the **Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Preserve** for a guided hike. We had booked it on TripAdvisor a couple of weeks ahead. Choose a daytime or nighttime tour based on which creatures you most want to see. We most wanted to see the quetzal, so we booked the early morning tour. Thanks to our guide's keen knowledge, we were lucky enough to see a quetzal at the very end of our hike in this magical cloud forest. We also saw other birds, tarantulas and lots of unique cloud forest plants. Hiking through the cool, misty air was refreshing.

> **What worked:** To see a quetzal in the Monteverde Cloud Forest Preserve, book the early morning guided walk. Our guide found one right at the end.

![Grandparents and a boy looking up into the trees on a misty forest path](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-cloudforest-guide.jpg)

_A guided walk in the Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Preserve._

![A dirt trail winding through tall, green cloud forest](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-cloudforest-path.jpg)

_The trail._

![A curled-up millipede in the palm of a hand](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-millipede-hand.jpg)

_Picking up creepy crawlies._

Next we went to the cafe in the preserve, where we watched so many gorgeous hummingbirds. They are almost too fast to photograph, which gave us a chance to just watch them in the moment. After devouring some snacks, we went back to our accommodation and spent some time planning the next day.

![Hummingbirds around a red feeder in the forest](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-hummingbirds.jpg)

_Hummingbirds outside the cafe._

**Stella's** is a popular breakfast and lunch place in Monteverde, within walking distance of where we were staying. We picked up some delicious juice and snacks.

![People ordering at the counter of Stella's bakery](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-stellas.jpg)

_Stella's._

Next, we joined a bean-to-bar chocolate workshop at **Café Caburé**, also within walking distance. We learned the whole chocolate-making process: we saw a cacao tree, collected seeds, then roasted, ground and tasted the cacao at different stages, and used the beans and cocoa butter to make delicious truffles. This was probably better suited to adults, as there was a lot of explaining, and the chocolate making itself was mostly at the end.

![The terracotta buildings of Café Caburé among tropical plants](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-cafe-cabure.jpg)

_Café Caburé._

The workshop worked up our appetites. We went to **Boca 2** cafe in town, recommended by family who had visited the year before. It is a family-run cafe with friendly service and great food. Parking is limited, right off the street. We ordered a vegetarian casado, the traditional Costa Rican meal of beans, rice, fried plantains, grilled vegetables, fresh cheese and salad, along with fresh fruit smoothies.

![A roadside table in front of the Boca 2 cafe's menu board](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-boca-2.jpg)

_Boca 2 cafe in Monteverde town._

After some rest at the Airbnb, we went on our night walk with **Kinkajou** night walk tours, booked a few weeks ahead. We arrived about 30 minutes before our 6 pm tour. So many of the cloud forest's amphibians, reptiles and mammals are nocturnal that a night walk is a must to see them in their natural habitat. We were assigned a guide in groups of 15 to 20 people.

![A small frog on a leaf lit by a flashlight at night](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-night-frog.jpg)

_A tree frog spotted on our night walk._

The trail was wet and muddy in places, as you'd expect in a cloud forest. Trail shoes or boots help with grip and keep off any creepy crawly hitchhikers. We saw tarantulas, scorpions, sleeping toucans, coatis, insects, tree-dwelling mammals, and lots of snakes and frogs. The tour took about two hours. The property was a little outside town, and although we walked different paths in a small area, it was more than enough to see some amazing wildlife. Back at the hotel, we ordered some ice cream before calling it a night.

![A scorpion glowing bright blue under a black light](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-scorpion-blacklight.jpg)

_A scorpion lit up by a black light._

![A snake coiled among leaves in the tree canopy at night](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-snake-canopy.jpg)

_A snake in the tree canopy._

## Day 4 Zip-lining, hanging bridges & frogs

We began the day at **Selvatura Park**, about 25 minutes away. Parking was easy, and after a short line we showed the tickets we had bought online the day before. My husband and son did the canopy tour: about 13 zip lines over more than 2 miles, including a Tarzan swing, tandem zip-lining and a 1 km line at the end. They had a blast. It involved a lot of climbing up to the platforms and some walking between them, and took about three hours.

The rest of us (my parents and I) walked the treetop trail and suspension bridges, about 2 miles round trip. The path winds through different levels of the canopy and over many suspension bridges. This was the best hanging bridges park we visited on the trip. The views were expansive and the bridges felt quite stable. There weren't many people on the bridges with us, which made the experience better and the pictures easier. We walked at a leisurely pace for about two hours. Afterward, we waited at the cafe sipping fresh papaya juice. When my husband and son joined us, we had some french fries as a snack and left.

> **What worked:** Selvatura's hanging bridges were the steadiest and least crowded of the trip. My parents and I walked them while my husband and son did the zip lines.

![A woman walking across a long suspension bridge over the forest canopy](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-cloud-walk.jpg)

_Walking the hanging bridges at Selvatura._

![An older couple smiling on a suspension bridge above the treetops](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-selvatura-bridge.jpg)

_The view of the canopy from the hanging bridges._

Selvatura also has a sloth habitat, reptile and amphibian exhibits and a butterfly garden. After our long morning in the cloud forest, we went into town for lunch at **The Open Kitchen**, which served sandwiches and Costa Rican dishes. We enjoyed patacones and falafel sandwiches.

![Wooden signposts in front of The Open Kitchen restaurant](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-open-kitchen.jpg)

_The Open Kitchen restaurant._

After lunch we rested at our Airbnb, then went to the **Ranario Monteverde**, also known as the Frog Pond. This frog sanctuary has about 30 species of frog from around Costa Rica, a must for anyone who loves frogs as much as our son. The best time to visit is at dusk or just after, as most of the species are nocturnal, and it stays open late for that reason. We highly recommend going in the evening, or you'll be peering into seemingly empty tanks with nothing moving. After sunset, the frogs are active, hunting, croaking and easy to see. The Ranario keeps the frog area dark to give visitors a better chance of seeing them. It took about an hour to see all the frogs. Tickets were easy to get at the door and cost about $10 (in 2021). It is hard to get decent photos through the glass in the dark, but it's still a fun place.

> **What worked:** Visit the Ranario Monteverde at dusk or after dark, when the frogs are awake. Earlier in the day, the tanks look empty.

![A brown frog sitting on a rock in a dim tank](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-ranario-frog.jpg)

_A frog in the Ranario._

![A red-eyed tree frog among leaves at night](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-ranario-red-eyed.jpg)

_A red-eyed tree frog in the Ranario._

For dinner we chose **Morpho's** restaurant. It's popular, so we waited about 20 minutes for a table. The veggie burgers were delicious. The restaurant has a beautiful sunset view over the hills, but we had chosen the Ranario at sunset, so we missed it. After dinner we were ready to call it a night.

## Day 5 To Jacó and Playa Blanca

We went back to Stella's for breakfast, as it was too close and too delicious to pass up. Then we set off for **Punta Leona**, near Jacó, about three hours away. The last 30 minutes or so into the area where our condo was were on unpaved, bumpy, rocky roads (as of 2021). My husband hated driving that stretch every time we went in and out.

![A coastal view of the bay and green headlands from a walkway above the beach](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-playa-blanca-view.jpg)

_The view of Playa Blanca from our condo complex._

Once we reached our condo, right on **Playa Blanca**, our son was ready for the beach. We settled into the spacious condo and changed. The pristine beach of powdery white sand was about 150 steps down from the complex. To the left was a more secluded rocky area, great for tide pool hunting, and the main stretch of beach was long, with perfect sand. There were a fair number of people, mostly from the condos and locals. We swam for a couple of hours, relaxing in the shallows. The condo also had a lovely, much less crowded pool, and we couldn't resist some time there before showering for dinner.

![Boy walking across white sand toward the water at Playa Blanca](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-white-beach.jpg)

_Playing on Playa Blanca._

For dinner, we went to an Indian restaurant in Jacó called **Hola India**. The food was spectacular: freshly made naan, perfectly spiced curries and good portions. We even picked up takeout for the next day, as we expected a long day trip. After dinner we stopped at the market to buy beach towels for the next day. Jacó is an incredibly busy surf town, and we hit a lot of traffic at the market and on the way back. The locals and big trucks here drive on a different level from visitors like us. Parts of the drive were downright scary, made worse by the rain. We were happy to get back safely before our early start.

## Day 6 Isla Tortuga

We had booked a boat tour to **Isla Tortuga** from the port of **Puntarenas**, about 1.5 hours away, though with traffic and unpaved stretches it was more like two. We booked through a third-party website with good reviews. The tour told us to be at the dock by 8:30 am and that breakfast would be served on the boat. So we woke up at 5:30 and left with plenty of time, with nothing but some cookies for breakfast. Parking near the dock was easy, and we made it just before 8:30. Most people on the tour were locals. The boat played loud party music and encouraged dancing, trying to keep an upbeat, party atmosphere. However, it was about 10 am before we boarded and set off, and there was no breakfast for people who had booked through third-party sites. We were hungry, grumpy and tired before the trip even began. We got some soda and crackers to hold us over during the two-hour-plus ride to Isla Tortuga.

![Fishing boats on calm water off Puntarenas](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-puntarenas-boats.jpg)

_The Puntarenas dock._

The water in the Gulf of Nicoya was calm, and the weather was warm under a cloudless sky. Isla Tortuga is a gorgeous island with perfect white sand and shallow, beautiful turquoise water. We got off the boat, changed into our swimsuits in the changing shed, put our things on some lounge chairs, and enjoyed the calm, shallow water for a while.

![Man and boy hugging on the white sand beach, with boats in the turquoise water behind](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-isla-tortuga-arrival.jpg)

_Arriving at Isla Tortuga._

![Clear turquoise water lapping the white sand, with boats anchored off the island](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-isla-tortuga-beach.jpg)

_The view from the beach._

Lunch was a challenge. The tour staff first said they didn't have the vegetarian meals we had requested when booking. After some back and forth, they found us rice, beans and boiled vegetables. It wasn't the best meal of our trip, but having missed breakfast and been up since 5:30 am, we were happy to eat anything at all. Because of all these issues, we would definitely recommend not booking tours like this through third-party sites. Communicating directly with the tour company is essential for accurate timings and dietary needs.

> **Watch out:** Book boat tours like Isla Tortuga directly with the tour company. Through a third-party site, we got no breakfast, a late departure, and our vegetarian meals were nearly forgotten.

![Man and boy sitting in the clear, shallow water](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-isla-tortuga-swim.jpg)

_Swimming in the calm, shallow water._

With food in our bellies, we were in better spirits. We took turns playing in the water and napping in the shade, walked along the beach, and my husband flew the drone. The day ended on a pleasant note, with a beautiful sunset as we headed back to Puntarenas. Puntarenas has a one-lane main road, and it was bumper-to-bumper as we left the port. What should have taken 30 minutes took two hours. By the time we got back, after 9:30 pm, we were incredibly tired. We were so glad to have the Indian takeout from the day before. We thoroughly enjoyed it and went right to bed.

## Day 7 Tide pools and on to La Fortuna

After breakfast we went down to the beach to explore, walking the rocky area in search of tide pools and taking photos and drone videos. After checking out, we set off for **La Fortuna** for the next few days.

![Boy exploring the rocky tide pools below the condos](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-tide-pools.jpg)

_Exploring the tide pools._

The drive was about four hours, but it took longer with stops for lunch and gas. Roads in Costa Rica are often paved, unpaved or something in between, so treat Google Maps times as an estimate rather than an exact arrival time.

> **Note:** Roads in Costa Rica switch between paved and unpaved, so drives take longer than Google Maps says.

On the way, we stopped at a vegetarian restaurant in the town of **San Luis**, right in the cloud forest. **Loveat**, part of a property called **Lands in Love**, was incredibly special, as it sits on an animal sanctuary. The food was mostly Mediterranean-inspired, as the restaurant was started by a family who moved from Israel with their rescue animals. As of 2024, the property seems to have expanded to offer nature tours, zip-lining and accommodation. The grounds were vast, with mountain and valley views.

After a great conversation with the owners, we got back on the road to La Fortuna, arriving at our hotel, **Las Miradas**, in the early evening. We relaxed for an hour or so before heading out to dinner at **The Green Spoon**. We enjoyed some pasta and sandwiches. The decor was urban chic and the portions were large.

## Day 8 Chocolate and night frogs

![A path through red and green tropical plants, with misty hills beyond](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-las-miradas-view.jpg)

_The view from the breakfast area at our hotel._

After a nice traditional breakfast at our hotel, we drove to **Two Little Monkeys Chocolate** for a chocolate-making workshop, about 30 minutes outside La Fortuna. This traditional, family-owned property is where the family runs the chocolate shop, grows its own cacao, cultivates all kinds of fruits and vegetables, and raises their family. We were impressed by the couple behind the business and their commitment to chocolate and their land.

![The family at a long table making chocolate in an open-air hut](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-chocolate-workshop.jpg)

_Making chocolate at the Two Little Monkeys workshop._

![Boy turning the handle of a metal grinder](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-chocolate-grinder.jpg)

_Using the chocolate grinder._

The workshop was very hands-on. We drank, ate, smelled and touched chocolate at every stage and used traditional chocolate-making tools. We were treated to amazing sugarcane juice from cane grown on the property. The workshop began with the history of chocolate, then went through the stages of preparation before we made the chocolate ourselves. Afterward, we toured the grounds, seeing breadfruit, jackfruit, lychee and mango trees, and got up close to the resident sloth. This workshop was definitely more kid-friendly than the one in Monteverde. We especially enjoyed the traditional songs we sang while making the chocolate.

> **What worked:** For kids, the hands-on chocolate workshop at Two Little Monkeys in La Fortuna beat the more lecture-style one in Monteverde.

![A sloth in the branches of a tree](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-sloth.jpg)

_The resident sloth._

After buying some products to take home, we went back to La Fortuna for lunch at **Red Frog Coffee Roasters**, which has nice shaded indoor and outdoor seating. We enjoyed veggie burgers and fries; the portions were huge and the service friendly.

![Woman, boy and man smiling at a table in the cafe](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-red-frog-coffee.jpg)

_Red Frog Coffee Roasters for lunch._

After a relaxing afternoon, we went on another night walk, at **Arenal Oasis Eco Lodge**, for their frog-watching tour. Our son is a big fan of all frogs, and the red-eyed tree frog is his favorite, so this tour was a must for us. You can also see sloths, reptiles and insects. When we arrived and checked in, we were assigned a guide who took our group along the trails to see what we could find.

![A tiny pale frog on a leaf at night](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-tiny-frog.jpg)

_A tiny frog on our night walk._

We saw many kinds of frogs, including lots of red-eyed tree frogs, as well as many kinds of snakes and other creepy crawlies. The wildlife on the property occurs naturally, thanks to the ponds, streams and rivers around it. The trails are maintained but can be muddy, especially after rain. It rained on and off during our tour, but in rain jackets and hiking boots we were more than comfortable. As on every guided wildlife walk in Costa Rica, the guides were more than happy to help with photos. They hold up a flashlight, or even offer to take the picture for you, as they are very experienced at it.

![A see-through glass frog on a backlit leaf](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-glass-frog.jpg)

_A powdered glass frog._

![A red-eyed tree frog clinging to a yellow flower spike](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-red-eyed-tree-frog.jpg)

_A red-eyed tree frog._

The tour lasted about two hours. Then we had dinner at **India Curry House**, which we had reserved online before the night walk. The restaurant is small, so a reservation is recommended. The food was delicious and homey. It was a long wait after ordering, and we thought it was a bit pricey, but we enjoyed it enough to go back later in the trip.

## Day 9 Mistico hanging bridges and La Fortuna Waterfall

We started with another delicious breakfast at our hotel, then drove to **Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park**, about 30 minutes outside town near Lake Arenal. The park has a great view of the iconic **Arenal Volcano** right from the entrance; it's one of the best spots for photos of the volcano. We chose the Natural History guided tour and were assigned a guide with a fairly large group. The guide did a great job explaining the nature, plants, animals and climate of the area. We explored different levels of the forest canopy, saw a waterfall and several eyelash vipers. The trail was not strenuous and included many hanging bridges.

![Boy standing under the Arenal Hanging Bridges Park arch, with the volcano in cloud behind](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-mystico-arch.jpg)

_The photo spot at Mistico Hanging Bridges Park._

![Boy holding the rails of a suspension bridge in the rainforest](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-mystico-bridge.jpg)

_Walking over the hanging bridges._

Overall, we enjoyed the hanging bridges at Selvatura more, as they were sturdier and swayed a lot less. Mistico was also much more crowded, which made crossing the bridges harder. At Selvatura, we could stand on the bridges and enjoy the canopy views for a long time without worrying about swaying. At Mistico, the bridges swayed a lot, with people coming the other way and a line behind us, so it was impossible to stop and take in the scenery. Our son was quite nervous about the swaying too.

> **Watch out:** Mistico's hanging bridges swayed more and were much busier than Selvatura's. Our son found them nerve-wracking.

![A small yellow eyelash viper on a tree trunk](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-eyelash-viper.jpg)

_An eyelash viper._

![Boy standing at a railing in front of a tall waterfall](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-mystico-waterfall.jpg)

_A waterfall along the trail._

After the walk, we had lunch at the on-site restaurant. We were lucky we did: while we waited for our food, the clouds around Arenal Volcano parted, giving us a gorgeous view of the peak. It was the only time in our five days there that we saw the summit, as it is usually covered in clouds.

![The cone of Arenal Volcano clear of cloud above the rainforest](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-arenal-volcano.jpg)

_The view of Arenal Volcano from the cafe at Mistico._

After lunch we drove to the **La Fortuna Waterfall**. We bought tickets and made our way down the 300 or so steps to the bottom. About halfway down, my dad's knees started bothering him, so he sat on a bench along the path. The rest of us made it down with no problem. The steps are metal with good grip, with handrails most of the way, and the lush rainforest around the trail is beautiful. The waterfall was raging. We checked out the viewpoint and walked to the rocky area by the pool at its base, where people were swimming. It was a crowded spot for photos, and we couldn't get any without people in the background.

> **Watch out:** The La Fortuna Waterfall is about 300 steps down and back up. There are benches along the way for anyone with sore knees.

![The thin white La Fortuna Waterfall dropping into a deep green rainforest gorge](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-la-fortuna-falls-top.jpg)

_The La Fortuna Waterfall from the top of the trail._

![Man standing on the rocks at the base of the powerful waterfall](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-la-fortuna-falls-base.jpg)

_The bottom of the waterfall._

![A rocky river flowing through dense rainforest](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-la-fortuna-river.jpg)

_The view of the other side of the river._

The climb back up was easier than expected, with breaks along the way. We saw lots of people zip-lining in the canopy above the falls; it looked like a great place for it. After some time to relax at the hotel, we had Italian for dinner at **Restaurante Café Mediterráneo**. The pizza and pasta were good, the restaurant was nice, and the service was great.

## Day 10 El Castillo butterflies and zip-lining

We had saved this day for hiking trails in **Arenal Volcano National Park**, but the weather didn't cooperate. We still drove the 30 minutes out to the park as planned. It had poured all night and into the morning, and as we pulled into the parking lot, the rain grew heavier. We couldn't see more than a few feet ahead. We waited in the car for about 30 minutes to see if it would let up, but no luck.

While sitting in the car, we looked for alternatives nearby and found a village up the mountain called **El Castillo**, where local researchers run the **Butterfly Conservatory** in the rainforest, about a 20-minute drive around the lake. The rain mostly continued but eased to the point where it just added to the rainforest atmosphere. Rain jackets and hiking sandals or boots gave us enough grip on the slick trails. A narrow unpaved road took us up to a higher elevation, with great views of Lake Arenal and the volcano.

The Butterfly Conservatory was a small park with a lot to offer: a small botanical garden, a large butterfly greenhouse with butterflies from different habitats, a frog aquarium and a turtle pond. We walked a trail cut right into the rainforest. Our guide was a student from the US living and volunteering there to learn more about butterflies. This small, research-based organization felt dedicated to preserving the rainforest, and we felt good about supporting its mission.

> **What worked:** When rain closed in on Arenal Volcano National Park, the Butterfly Conservatory in El Castillo, 20 minutes away, made a great rainy-day plan.

![A brown and white patterned butterfly resting on a leaf](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-butterfly.jpg)

_A butterfly in the covered pavilion._

![A bright blue morpho butterfly with its wings open on a leaf](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-blue-morpho.jpg)

_A blue morpho butterfly._

![A glasswing butterfly with see-through wings on an orange flower](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-glasswing.jpg)

_A glasswing butterfly._

After walking the whole trail and enjoying the views from the gazebo, listening to a ton of howler monkeys in the trees, we went back down the mountain to look for lunch. We spent about 90 minutes at the Butterfly Conservatory.

![A boy in a rain jacket crossing a narrow wooden bridge in the rainforest](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-castillo-trail.jpg)

_The rustic trail back to the car._

On the way down, we stopped at a cafe called **La Ventanita**. It was actually someone's house, with a gorgeous patio turned into a restaurant; the owner cooked in her own kitchen and lived on site. It sits high up, overlooking stunning Lake Arenal and the surrounding rainforest. The view of the misty lake and lush greenery was truly uplifting. We enjoyed Mexican-style burritos and nachos, which were pretty good, but the view was the real attraction.

![Boy standing on a wooden deck between two Costa Rican flags, with the lake and volcano behind](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-la-ventanita-view.jpg)

_The view from La Ventanita._

![The open-air La Ventanita cafe with picnic tables on the grass](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-la-ventanita.jpg)

_La Ventanita restaurant._

Even though we had to change our plans that morning, we had a great time in El Castillo.

Back at our hotel, my husband and son decided they wanted to go zip-lining one more time. With the afternoon free, we did some quick research and found **EcoGlide Arenal Park**, close to our hotel, among the rainforest trees on the side of Arenal Volcano. From the tour office, an off-road vehicle took them through the rainforest to the start of the zip lines. They enjoyed it and thought the zip lines felt sturdier than at Selvatura.

![Man and boy in harnesses and helmets by the EcoGlide sign](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-zipline.jpg)

_Getting ready to zip-line._

While they were away, the rest of us enjoyed a nap and some time in the hotel's hot springs. When they got back, we went to India Curry House again: the same delicious food, with the same somewhat lengthy wait. Overall, our bellies were happy.

## Day 11 Tabacón

After breakfast we checked out and drove to **Tabacón Thermal Resort & Spa**, our home for the night. We had heard a lot about it from family and added it to our La Fortuna list. Soaking in Tabacón's expansive, healing hot springs is included with an overnight stay, so that made more sense to us than a day pass. The property exudes luxury from the moment you reach the gate.

> **What worked:** At Tabacón, an overnight stay includes the hot springs, and you can use them from arrival until check-out, which made it better value for us than a day pass.

At the gate, our bags were unloaded and we handed the car keys to the valet. Since this was soon after the height of Covid, check-in needed extra paperwork (vaccine cards). The restaurants at Tabacón need reservations for lunch and dinner, so we sorted those out for the day. We were too early to check in, but you can enjoy the hot springs, restaurants and the rest of the property all day. So we grabbed our swimsuits and took the five-minute shuttle to the hot springs.

![Bathers in a series of steaming hot spring pools in the rainforest](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-tabacon.jpg)

_The Tabacón hot springs._

We started with lunch at the restaurant there. The vegetarian options were limited, the portions small and pricey, but what we ordered tasted great. After the meal we found the changing rooms, put our things in lockers, and went to relax in the most beautiful hot springs. The springs are laid out in tiers: those at the top, supposedly closest to the source, are the hottest, and those near the changing rooms and exits are the coolest. There's also a pool with normal water for kids who don't like the hot springs, though our son loved them. He swam around with us and relaxed all afternoon. The setting is as close to natural as possible: the pools have river-rock floors, and the thermal water is free of chemicals, left in its natural state. It felt like being in a gorgeous natural thermal river in the rainforest. There were many pools of different sizes, and we never felt crowded.

![A woman, an older woman and a boy at a railing above a hot spring waterfall](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-tabacon-family.jpg)

_The Tabacón hot springs._

After several hours relaxing in the different temperatures and pools, we showered, changed and took the shuttle back to the main property, where we were shown to our well-appointed rooms. Even the shower water in the rooms comes from the property's geothermal sources. We settled in and got dressed for dinner. The dinner restaurant was right next to the pool; the decor and service were exquisite, but again there were few vegetarian options.

Back in our room, we decided we weren't done with the hot springs for the day. We put our swimsuits back on, wrapped up in the soft, luxurious robes in the rooms, and took the shuttle for some nighttime soaking. The hot springs were lit with a warm, inviting glow, with gentle steam rising above. We soaked in some of our favorite pools again. Our son wanted the regular pool this time, so we spent some time there too.

Thoroughly relaxed, we went back to our rooms ready to sleep, but couldn't, dreading the pre-travel Covid tests we had to do the next day (this was in January 2022).

## Day 12 Covid tests and Playa Hermosa

We started the morning bright and early doing our Covid tests in our room over video calls. The process was long: it took about three hours before all five of us were cleared. With our negative results, we could get our boarding passes for our flight home the next day. Relieved, we went to enjoy the extravagant breakfast included with our stay: made-to-order pancakes and omelets, and a wide spread of traditional Costa Rican and continental breakfast food. Without the travel restrictions, the morning would have been perfect for one last soak or even a spa treatment.

![Boy sitting on a fence at Café Macadamia, with Lake Arenal behind](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-macadamia-view.jpg)

_The view from Café Macadamia._

After checking out, we drove toward **Playa Hermosa**. We chose a beachside hotel there for our last night as it was within 30 minutes of Liberia airport. The route took us halfway around Lake Arenal, then west toward the coast. For lunch we stopped at **Café Macadamia**, our last great meal in Costa Rica, on the hillside overlooking the lake. The view alone was reason enough to stop, but the food was spectacular too. We had fresh fruit juices, a vegetarian casado and pizza, all delicious. The parking lot is small and usually full, but it's worth waiting for someone to leave. After lunch, we made a couple more stops at viewpoints to enjoy the scenery and the local cattle.

![A cow grazing on a hillside above Lake Arenal](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-arenal-cow.jpg)

_Driving around Lake Arenal._

We reached our hotel in Playa Hermosa around 4 pm. The rooms were spacious and perfect for families. The beach sand was more brown than white, but the water was clean and calm, perfect for a little beach time. We enjoyed a beautiful sunset over the water and the surrounding cliffs.

![Boy standing at the water's edge on Playa Hermosa in the evening](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-playa-hermosa-boy.jpg)

_Playa Hermosa._

After cleaning up, we had dinner at the hotel restaurant, as the town was very small and quiet, with no real food options. The restaurant was beautifully set up, with beach furniture and a gentle sea breeze, but the food was very underwhelming. We mostly filled up on fries and ice cream.

![Boats anchored in the calm bay off Playa Hermosa](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-playa-hermosa-beach.jpg)

_Playa Hermosa._

![The sun setting behind a headland over the sea](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-playa-hermosa-sunset.jpg)

_Sunset at the beach._

## Day 13 Home

We slept well knowing we were all set to leave. After a good breakfast, we spent about half an hour on the beach again, then packed up and drove to the rental car office to return the car. The agency's shuttle took us to the airport. Check-in and security were smooth and fast, and we waited in the lounge before boarding.

![Lounge chairs under trees on the beach in the morning light](https://trainsandfrogs.com/content/costarica/cr-playa-hermosa-morning.jpg)

_The morning view of the beach._